How to calculate stairs comes down to one division. Take the total rise, finished floor to finished floor, and divide it by the riser height you like (7½ in is a comfortable target). Round to a whole number of risers. If that leaves any riser taller than 7¾ in, add one and divide again. Every riser comes out identical, which is what keeps you inside the IRC's ⅜ in variation limit. Uneven risers are the classic trip hazard, and the one a building inspector measures first.
The upper floor counts as the last step, so a stair has one fewer tread than risers. Total run is treads times tread depth. The stringer line is the straight distance from the bottom plumb cut to the top plumb cut: the hypotenuse of total rise and total run. The board you buy has to be longer than that line, because the cuts at each end eat wood, so the calculator adds one board depth and rounds up to the next stock length. The rest of the calculations for stairs are plain geometry. Cut the first stringer, test-fit it, then trace it for the rest. A bad cut copied four times is four ruined 2×12s.
Rise over 12 ft 7 in, or a stair that has to turn? Switch Landing on. The calculator splits the stair at the whole riser nearest the middle (or at the landing height you enter) and gives each flight its own risers, run and stringer. It then checks the landing: at least 36 in deep on a straight stair, and at least as deep as the stair is wide on a 90° turn, which is how an L-shaped staircase works. The plan diagram shows how much floor the whole stair takes, so you can find out it does not fit before the lumber arrives.
The stair angle is arctan(riser ÷ tread). A 7½ in riser with a 10 in tread comes to about 37°. Taller risers or shorter treads steepen it, which is why the code caps both.
Every stair has two ends. The deck calculator sizes the platform at the top, and the baluster calculator spaces the guard along the open side. The same rise-over-run idea sets a roof slope in the roof pitch calculator.